To some people, that's more important. I've had it in my car for about two years now, and it's performing nicely. Don't worry about the radiator cap right now, we will crack that open later. This is done to make sure to get as much of the old coolant out of the system as a bunch of it is sitting inside the engine block. As there are many different types of coolant, before replacement I researched the type of coolant recommended for use in Mazda engines. The one on the left however, is 100% coolant while the one on the right is premixed. I should probably look in to this hough since I own one and all.
Which I then got to replace, because I'm the mechanic. I'll also use it for future top-ups as necessary to maintain the purity of the fluid. The other major Japanese automakers, Honda, Nissan and Toyota all use essentially the same coolant technology. Just buy the coolant on the left and make your own mixture. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. Thank you for stressing the importance of regular cooling system maintenance.
Once the bolt is removed you will notice coolant start to slowly dribble out if you haven't opened the radiator cap. Typical street drivers that also see themselves on the track on the weekends will tell you that they change their coolant every year. The reason I say this is because that hose dumps out pretty much directly above a connector for your power steering. The coolant could be extremely hot. Remember, leaving the coolant sensor unplugged to avoid the spurious warnings would mean that a genuine problem that resulted in catestrophic loss of coolant would then go undetected, until too late.
It has almost, if not exactly, the same formulation as Mazda's coolant, near as I can tell. No leaks to report, temp stays normal, and the coolant still looks clean. From what I'm aware there's a 0% chance this would happen if we were leaking into the engine correct? Back in the earliest days of motoring, straight water was used as the cooling medium. Check it out, it's like this. . Japanese engine manufacturers believe silicates and borates are undesirable because of their abrasiveness they can attack water pump seals, for example and they are less effective in fighting corrosion than phosphates. It has almost, if not exactly, the same formulation as Mazda's coolant, near as I can tell.
So do this at your peril. I have looked through the factory service manual a few times and could not find this documented anywhere, so I have taken some time to document the location. Sep 05, 2009 Agree with the earlier post - the sensor that forms part of the coolant expansion tank is renown for failure - keep an eye on the level and it should be okay. Inspect the threads of the manifold, radiator or pipe, and use a thread chaser to restore the threads if damaged. Now, I know about our seals and I'm praying that my baby isn't leaking into the engine. Although excessive, it is cheap insurance to keep from sludge buildup in your coolant hoses and passages.
And you can still buy it undiluted, shockingly enough. According to the labels on the container, its ingredients are Ethylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Water, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Hydroxide. All of the other stuff in modern coolant helps to raise the boiling point this is also why the system's under pressure and lower the freezing point, and also to act as a lubricant and rust inhibitor. It's in the mechanic now and since we wouldn't be able to finish it today either way we're waiting until tomorrow to get the part. We all know owning these cars isn't rational. I have read a number of forum posts from people who drain their radiator, refill, run the car for a while, drain, and refill again. That's why we call it a 'water pump', after all.
Then people pay attention to it. Because there are several different types of coolant, specific product information is not always easy to come by some ingredients can be legally hidden as proprietary information , and the wrong choice of coolant can actually harm the engine or render the factory fill less effective, I decided to go with the genuine Mazda stuff since it's made specifically for our engines. My personal preference is to leave the separator tank uncapped and let the car run so that the thermostat opens. As pictured in the first section, the undertray has an easy access hole to the radiator drain plug. The next thing we want to do, is the normal radiator drain. Once your done filling, make sure to properly bleed the system of air.
I'm sure this will vary according to location. Get the car's temperature nice and hot to make sure that all of the coolant circulates and air bleeds out. If you have a helper, have them slowly start to open the radiator cap until the coolant drains out at a controllable state if you dont have much room and are afraid of making a mess. There was also a puddle. I get wary when any manufacturer starts throwing around numbers like that. Posted on Aug 11, 2009 Not low input sensor. Although this works, it really takes a long time.